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Thread: Brake help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Cleveland Ohio USA
    Posts
    169

    Default Brake help

    I'm rebuilding my rear brakes,as the hardware is quite rusty.
    I see a few different types of wheel cylinders,different sizes,some listed for wagons.
    I'm guessing wagons had 12 inch drums,and centurions 11 inch?
    I'm also having master cylinder problems,as the brake light comes on and I lose my pedel,then it returns,then goes away again.
    Anyone rebuild theirs?
    Or just replace with new?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mahopac, New York, United States
    Posts
    861

    Default

    When dealing with brakes, I just replaced the wheel cylinders, pads and shoes and master cylinder with the stock replacement part from a decent parts company. I never attempted on rebuilding the master myself, just figured getting a rebuilt one as most are, at Car Quest or Auto Zone, etc, and be done with it. Having your pedal fade could also be a bad wheel cylinder or rusted brake lines.

    Make sure the wheel cylinders are not leaking fluid, then check your lines, you might have a section that is rusted out. If the brake hardware is rusted more than likely you might have a bad wheel cylinder, hopefully your lines are not rusted, now that is a royal pain in the ass to change.

    Lastly if all is ok go right to the master. Reading that your brake hardware is rusty I would shoot out to Car Quest or a similar place and get a brake kit with new springs and stuff.
    The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not.

    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." -- Thomas Jefferson

    Rick Martinez

    1973 Centurion 455 convertible - My show & tow car
    1970 GS455 Racecar
    9.25 @ 144.83, 3070 lbs

  3. #3

    Default

    If your pedal goes away and stays gone it's probably the lines or a wheel cylinder. If the pedal comes back it's most likely the master cylinder. The seals between the two chambers can wear out and fluid travels from one side to the other.

    You probably know this but brake fluid is nasty stuff on paint. It soaks into the metal and can be difficult to completely clean off. If you buy a replacement (or rebuild your own) it's a good time to put on a good coat of paint. Eastwood makes some paints that do a good job of imitating the cad plating on the booster. It might be a good time to pretty that up.

    John
    Livin' Large.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Cleveland Ohio USA
    Posts
    169

    Default Which shoe towards the front?

    I took photos before I started each wheel.
    The problem I'm having is getting the new drum installed onto the new shoes.
    I sanded both the shoes and the surface of the new drum.
    The adjuster is all the way in at it's shortest length.
    The shoe with longer material is facing the front,just as I took them apart.

    I've heard some folks put the shorter shoe in front.
    I was under the impression the longer shoe goes toward the front,as most of the rear braking is done at the front shoe.

    Anyone have the correct answer?
    Thanks!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    1,426

    Default

    From looking on the picts in the 73 Buick Maintenance manual the short shoe should be towards the front of the car (primary) and the long one towards the back (secondary)
    Per

    Buick Centurion two door hardtop 1973
    Hyundai Santa Fe 2006
    Honda Accord 2009
    Cadillac Seville STS 1999

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Cleveland Ohio USA
    Posts
    169

    Default

    Thanks for the clarification.
    Been a long time since I had to deal with rear shoes.
    4 wheel disc's are so much easier to work on.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Cleveland Ohio USA
    Posts
    169

    Default

    Thanks for the clarification.
    Been a long time since I had to deal with rear shoes.
    4 wheel disc's are so much easier to work on.

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