Trunklid

[MichelHaak]

Does anyone know if the Centurion trunklid from 72 is interchangable with other cars?

And does anyone know which parts are the same on a Centurion and an Electra 225 from 1972? The front looks identical?

Reason of asking: In my region stands a electra 72 at a junkyard...:Brow:

[Centurion]

Michel, the entire front clip of the '72 Electra 225 will interchange with your Centurion. Obviously, the grille is different, and the Electra 225 front fenders lack the Centurion nameplate. The Electra hood has the ventiport ornaments, which our Centurions lack.

If the Electra 225 is a 2-door model, then even the doors themselves are the same as your Centurion.

Regarding the trunk lid, I believe that only the '72 LeSabre and Centurion trunk lids are correct matches for your car. '71 will fit, but these lids have louvers for the power ventilation system.

[MichelHaak]

ok, sounds good! But the trunklid is not interchangeble with chevys of oldsmobiles for example?

[Centurion]

No Michel, none of the other General Motors trunk lids will interchange with your Centurion. If you look carefully at photos, you will see that they are all shaped differently.

By the way, you are most fortunate that your car is equipped with the custom rear body molding, which is the narrow stainless along the edge of the trunk lid and rear quarter extensions. These pieces have become difficult to find.

[MichelHaak]

Thanks for the help, didn't thought that these moldings were rare. They look great but the reason I need another trunklid is because of that molding I guess. There is ALOT of rust under the paintwork at the molding. Water is just gathering together underneath the moldings. So the trunklid needs a new piece of metal plate if I can't find another trunklid... Because there is no line in the bodywork or a strip where the paint can stop, the whole trunklid needs a repaint because otherwise you would see a difference between the old and the new paintjob. Thats why a rustfree trunklid would be a lot cheaper, no welding on the old one and the paintjob preparation can be done by myself... We will see what the dutch yunkyard will give us! :beers:

[Centurion]

Michel, we will remain on the lookout for a good, used trunk lid for your car. When you replace the existing trunk lid, make certain that you keep the stainless moldings, which can be added to your new trunk lid.

[MichelHaak]

by the way, is a '73 trunk lid the same as a '72?

[Smartin]

Yes..

[Robroy]

Michel,
Check out post #14 & 16 on this thread http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=138236&highlight=s%F6sdala

The cars on the junkyard in Sösdala are mostly junk and empty bones, however they have a few 73's LeSabre's (http://www.sosdalaskroten.se/billista.htm) and the shipping to Holland from there shouldn’t be too bad. Don't hurt to ask, I recommend giving them a call which is better than e-mail with these people.

You have the phone numbers on the link below.
http://www.bildelarosby.se/main.htm

Good luck ;)

[MichelHaak]

Hi Per,

Thanks for the reaction, I heard some while ago that the big yard at Osby would stop? Anyway, that other yard 1 hour south is ok?

[Robroy]

The big yard in Osby seems to have moved over to newer American cars, they did however buy this smaller yard in Sösdala that were into the good old stuff.
The cars they have there are pretty much crap but there’s a big barn full with parts; according to friends of mine this stock of parts is badly organized. :confused4:
They often have out sales with real low prices, you get the feeling that owner (the Osby yard) plans to close this yard once that barn gets empty.

I think you might get lucky finding parts you need to fair prices, best would be to go there and see what you buy before you buy. Maybe combine with a vacation trip.

Have you checked out the possibility in welding the lid you have?
If you find the right person for the job it might be doable if the rust isn’t too bad.

[MichelHaak]

yesterday, a man which restores old american classics had a look at my car. That's is second time a sheet metal worker had a look. He said maybe it's better to weld the trunklid and do it perfect. He said you can buy a trunklid somewhere but if there is any rust on the inside of the edges you have to prepare it also before painting. If he can weld it for example for 150 dollar, I think I can't buy a decent trunklid for that money. So maybe welding will be the best option. He didn't tell me a price, but will contact me this week. I think it will be about 1500 dollar paint incl... That's the trunklid and the rear quarters around the wheels... It was a real Ford man but he liked the Centurion...:xyxthumbs:

[Robroy]

Whatever trunk lid you find will very likely have some rust that needs welding anyway, as the man said.
So your plan sounds like a good one to me, check out the price and maybe also his references on similar jobs, if possible.

[73 Centurion]

Here's a trick commonly used hear in New England. Cars begin to rust before they leave the dealership here.

Any screw that goes through paint should be dipped in clear RTV, or a silicone sealer. When the threads twist through the hole they always remove the paint leaving bare metal exposed. Combine that with trim that traps dirt and holds moisture and that's why rust begins there.

I just dip the screw into the sealer before tightening. A quarter of an inch is usually enough, you don't want huge blobs, just enough to set up and seal the hole. The sealer protects the bare metal stopping the rust. It's easy to get these screws out again, because they aren't rusted and the sealer can be wiped away.

I have a little tray with red and blue loctite, anti-seize and silicone sealer. Every fastener I remove gets coated in something before it goes back in.

John