View Full Version : Driver Side "master" switch not working
yosuthnmasa
07-13-2007, 10:45 PM
I'm trying to get some advice on how to fix the master switch for all the electric windows (switch on the driver side door). Out of the 4 switches on the master switch, only the passenger side window can be operated. However, the individual single switches on the passenger side and rear side doors do work if you use them instead of the master switch. So, the drivers side window is the only one that I can't get down at all using any switch. Any troubleshooting suggestions or advice on how to fix the master switch? Is this a common problem with electric windows on these cars?
Smartin
07-13-2007, 11:12 PM
SOmetimes you can "work" the switch back and forth vigorously, and that might clean the contacts enough to get it to work again. Or try to push harder than you normally would. I had this issue on the convertible before I finally just replaced it. You may have to do that as well. There is also the possibility that the contacts on the wiring harness are not connecting right...you will have to remove the door panel to get to the back of the switch.
Since you've excluded the motors themselves, you have narrowed it down to the switch to begin with. I would remove the switch and short the contact points for the switch by a wire to see if you get any reaction at the non functioning windows. If you do, all you need to do is to take the switch apart and clean it. If you don't I guess we'll have to take it from there. I guess you could use a voltmeter on the contact points too, just make sure the ignition is on.
yosuthnmasa
07-14-2007, 11:54 AM
Thanks for the advice. If I end up having to buy a switch if cleaning it doesnt work, how much do they normally run and what model cars are interchangeable?
yosuthnmasa
07-27-2007, 06:59 PM
I took the switch out and shorted the contacts. All windows worked when I did this. Thus, I'm sure its the switch. What's the best way to clean/take apart the switch? The bezel around the switch appears to have small tabs on the back that holds the wafer with posts in tight. Do you grind off or bend the tabs back in order to get inside the switch? Once inside, what do you guys recommend doing? One of the posts was significantly rusted on the outside of the switch. I used some steel wool and cleaned it up but still nothing when I hook up the switch. The wiring diagram I have shows that all 4 switches on the driver's main are independent of each other, so if one went bad the others should still work. Thus, I dont think the one that was rusted should cause all of them to be bad. Thoughts?
The German
07-28-2007, 03:17 AM
Just 2 days ago I had the problem that the drivers window didnīt go down, it
was clear that it was a problem with the switch. I took the switch out and sprayed in some special electronic contact liquid. Some movements with the switch and itīs working again ! Perhaps thatīs the solution for you too (?) !
_______________
Rolf
yosuthnmasa
07-30-2007, 11:47 PM
I pulled the switch out, off the harness, and took it apart. Look at the points on the inside and most of them looked good. One of them looked a little 'used', like maybe it had gotten hot in the past. I put the switch back together and checked the function of the switches by touching the posts on the back with an ohmmeter (using the common hot post) and each switch (going up and down) in the master worked fine. Each one checked out fine with the ohmmeter. I hooked back up the harness and nothing again. Remember, I've already used a small piece of wire and 'hotwired' each window by touching the inside of the harness and thus ruling out the harness. When using one of the switches, if you looked really closely you could see a very small spark when I moved the switch up and down.
Since I know the harness isn't bad and know the switch isn't I really didnt know where to go. I soldered a little more metal on a few of the points on the inside of the switch. I also thought that maybe the touching of the post in the harness wasn't connecting well enough. What else would cause each switch in the master not to work if there's a common power among them all? So I built up a little bit of solder on the circumference of the 'hot' post. Plugged it back up to the harness and I've now got 1 and sometimes 2 of the window switches in the master working now. They're still making some small sparks on the inside of the switch on the points though.
HELP!! Anyone else had such horrible problems with their driver's side master switch?
yosuthnmasa
07-30-2007, 11:50 PM
Just 2 days ago I had the problem that the drivers window didnīt go down, it
was clear that it was a problem with the switch. I took the switch out and sprayed in some special electronic contact liquid. Some movements with the switch and itīs working again ! Perhaps thatīs the solution for you too (?) !
_______________
Rolf
Could be I guess. Were you using the driver's side switch on the master or just a single switch for that window? What kind of electronic contact liquid?
The German
07-31-2007, 04:57 AM
Could be I guess. Were you using the driver's side switch on the master or just a single switch for that window? What kind of electronic contact liquid?
I used KONTAKT 60 - a spray that brings Cu-Oxide into a liquid and frees electrical contact points from corrosion. I sprayed it into the master switch with those 4 switches combined into one. I bought it at :
http://www.conrad.de
Fill "KONTAKT 60" into the field "Schnellsuche" and click on the button "Suchen" !
______________
Rolf
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