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Robroy
06-26-2007, 04:37 AM
Thought I’d share this information about the GM big blocks that I found on Ebay. Some interesting stuff is in it, especially about swapping heads and about the oiling system.
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Buick
Buick made do with the "nailhead" 322, 364, 264, 401, and 425 engine family from 1953 through the '66 model year. The new-for-'67 Big Block engine was produced in 400 (to replace the 401) and 430 (to replace the 425) cubic inch versions, sharing the same stroke of 3.9" which although short for big-block engines in general, was longer than what was used in the older engines. The engines have a large bore-to-stroke ratio, with the bore of the 400 measuring 4.040", and 4.1875 for the 430.

Buick expanded the 430 by opening up the bore to 4.312 for the 1970 model year. The 400 and the 430 were then discontinued. The 455 uses a different scheme to supply oil to the rocker arms than the previous big block engines. Starting in '72, blocks were slightly re-designed in the head gasket area. In short, you must be very careful when swapping heads from one engine to another, to assure that the oiling system, coolant passages, and head gasket are compatable with one another.

Buick big-blocks have forged steel connecting rods, although small-blocks use cast iron rods. Even fans of the Buick engine note that oiling system problems are the first thing that needs to be addressed in a performance application. Poor oiling system performance is hard on the front cam bearing, and on most all of the crank bearings. Aftermarket fixes are readily available, but in general high-volume oil pumps are not recommended due to excessive loading and therefore wear on the distributor/cam gear interface. Fixing the oil system troubles added to "normal" high-performance modifications and expert machine work can result in surprising power--Buick enthusiasts think of a 455 as a "Chrysler Hemi"-killer, and with some justification.

The Buick big-block engine family is identified by:
1. Distributor in the front, offset to the left (driver's side) and tilted to the left about 30 degrees. Distributor rotates clockwise. Distributor does not enter the intake manifold, it enters an aluminum front cover assembly that is bolted onto the front of the block.

2. Valve covers have 5 bolts, two on the lower edge, and three on the upper edge. (Small block Buick 350s have 6 bolts, three in the upper row, three in the lower row. Buick 300 and 340 engines use four bolts.)

3. Timing chain cover is aluminum, and also has the oil pump housing cast-in. Fuel pump is on the left (driver's side.)


http://reviews.ebay.com/GM-Big-Block-455-engine-families-A-primer_W0QQugidZ10000000002053785

Robroy
06-26-2007, 07:52 AM
Even fans of the Buick engine note that oiling system problems are the first thing that needs to be addressed in a performance application. Poor oiling system performance is hard on the front cam bearing, and on most all of the crank bearings. ]

He indicates that the oiling system is a weak spot on the 455 but doesn’t really say what improvements that can be made?:confused2:

The German
06-27-2007, 08:52 AM
He indicates that the oiling system is a weak spot on the 455 but doesn’t really say what improvements that can be made?

Per, I don´t have an answer to that question but perhaps the following information could bring a feeling of security when using it - a special oil additive !

A friend told me that a special oil additive named MATHÉ CLASSIC MOTOROIL would be the best one can do. It is added with 10% to the normal oil. It would clean the motor, minimize wear, oil consumption, fuel consumption and corrosion; further it would bring more power because the cylinder is better sealed to the piston and the friction is reduced; last it would ensure a longer life of the motor:
http://www.mathy.de/index.php?page=pro_classic

This page is written only in German language but one can copy parts of the text and bring it to translation with google for instance. Interesting is a movie (German: "Film") which shows a test of this oil additive - one can view it here :
http://www.mathy.de/index.php?page=mathytest

It´s not cheap (46 Euro per liter and half a liter is needed for the motor), but they say that one can extend the oil change intervals to more than double as long as without it; only the oil filter has to be changed and MATHÉ oil has to be added and than one could drive up to 100 000 km without a complete change of oil (that seems to be too long to me, but with a motor that is used only at low rpm that could be no problem).

I´m thinking about to buy a liter ... .

They have such oil for transmissions also :
http://www.mathy.de/index.php?page=a_getriebe
_____________________

Rolf

Robroy
06-27-2007, 10:37 AM
Oils and oil additives are indeed a deep subject to dive into. There seem to be an endless collection and brands to choose from. Car mechanics often indicates that these additives promise a lot more than they actually deliver and that it’s a way of making some extra cash for the oil industry. Others say that you got to follow the development and use the new products:cool: .
Question is what is best for our old engines that were designed 37 years ago?
I remember someone; think it was Bob or Brian that uses a zinc additive when he changes the oil. This since the oils now days don’t have that and our engines were designed for oil with zinc in it. That makes scene to me.
Otherwise I’m rather old school on the oil front and uses average oils that I change often together with a filter change. I use the Half Synthetic type on my daily drivers.
I haven’t changed the oil on the Buick yet since it looks like new.

Have to admit that I’m a bit curious about what folks in general put in their 455’s, traditional mineral oil based, Half Synthetic or Full Synthetic?


There’s another thread regarding this subject on;
http://www.buickcenturion.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181