Smartin's 71 Formal Coupe

[wildcat65]

Smartin's Buick Before shots :D

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f376/Wildcat65/DSC00467.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f376/Wildcat65/DSC00466.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f376/Wildcat65/DSC00585.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f376/Wildcat65/DSC00542-1.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f376/Wildcat65/DSC00587.jpg

It will look even better soon

[Smartin]

...and it'll be faster, too!

Here is a picture and a link to a video of the new exhaust system..

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/small/exhaust_installed.jpg

Video:

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/exhaust_rev.avi

[Smartin]

More pics:

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/interior001.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/interior002.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/interior003.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/interior004.jpg


This needs a little work...

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/engine.jpg

[Centurion]

Adam, this is a beautiful car in a great color combination. There's good reason to think this is the nicest '71 Formal Coupe anywhere. This was a fantastic find, and I know that your underhood and interior detailing will bring this one to an even higher level.

When I looked at some of your photos just now, it struck me how much I would enjoy a calendar of Centurions. Hmmm . . . maybe an idea for 2008!

[Bob Alberini]

Brian,
Your calendar idea is terrific. I think a certain Flame Orange 72 convertible would make a superb candidate but one need only check out the Register to know that there are more than enough cars to make up superb calendars for years to come.

Bob Alberini BCA 3038
Columbus, OH
Centurion owner since 1973

[Smartin]

Bob, I can set up your signature so that you don't have to type all that out when you post a message...

If you like...it'll only take about 30 seconds.

[Bob Alberini]

Sure, Adam, thanks for the offer and please do. I'm come a long way in the computer age in the past few years but some of this stuff is still over my head.

Bob A.

[EEE]

It must be nice to start with something that's already in great shape. The more I think about everything that needs to be done to mine, the more distant a good result seems.. We want plenty of pics of any improvements and updates. A baseline run at the track would also be in place aaaiiiggghhtt :)

[kungphuphil]

What gorgeous condition right down to the instruments. Some of you restorative artists ought to come see my sled for a real challenge!

Did they make coupes in '73?

[jlv58]

WHAT ??? Smartin ...you do not have the trip set ? Looks cheap.....:rolleyes: :D :eek:

[Smartin]

Less Weight! ...and less things to worry about breaking:D

[Smartin]

Gathering parts..

Charlie Evans ported 1970 Stage1 heads, fresh off the press...or the dyno, whichever you prefer.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/small/new_engine_parts001.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/small/new_engine_parts002.jpg


Edelbrock Performer manifold port matched. It's a shame that I'll be painting this red. It was polished by Jim Weise at Tri Shield Performance in MN. It's a very nice piece. You can also see the brand new Stage1 fuel line sitting on top of it.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/small/new_engine_parts003.jpg

I had a laundry list of stuff ordered from TA Performance in AZ, so it will be here soon. That includes a new cam, convertor, lifters, pushrods, gaskets, and seal, and some other misc pieces. I hope that will be the majority of my spending spree with this one.

Uh, exept the $800 I just paid the shop to inpect my car:rolleyes: ...I needed a safety inspection to get my car registered, so I took it to the local place. They called me that afternoon and told me that my rear brakes were contaminated by differential fluid and needed replacement....along with the axle bearings and seals on both sides. One week later, they finally found the right parts, and I still have to pick it back up from them. I can't wait to write that check.

I've been in Texas for Thanksgiving all week, so I've been pretty much MIA around here...and everywhere else for that matter.

Hope everyone had a great holiday!

[Smartin]

New toys came yesterday!!!

[Eric B]

The tailpipes came out really nice!

[EEE]

Tell us about the converter, and expected hp with everything installed? Your other car pulled 250 hp on the dyno, how much more do you expect from this one?

[Smartin]

It's a 2500 stall convertor, nothing special, really.

65-67cc heads, 1970 castings ported pretty extensively with Stage1 swirl polished stainless valves. (those were my biggest single cost for this)

I am hoping to hit 350hp, and some 13 second runs next year at the BPG nats in August.

[EEE]

Valves set you back around 250? or are those more than that? I just bought a dvd on how to port heads, and will try to bring some home from the yard. I've read that 67 heads were good for some reason, and then I guess it goes 70, 71-73?

[Smartin]

I'm not sure how much the valves were. They had to be back cut, so that is more $$ in machining.

I bought the heads complete from Jim Rodgers on the BPG board.

67 "tall port" heads flow about 10% more air in stock form, than the other stock big block heads. I don't think it's worth the hassle to find a set.

[Smartin]

Why can't it just be WARM already?? I want to rip this engine apart.:coffee:

[72gsx4me]

Just a little FYI on the TA cam.

Pay attention to the machining between lobes. Make sure the material between lobe will not hit the lifter. If it does, you will damage not only the lifter, but also the cam. I had a Crower and it was machined really nice. I put in a hotter TA cam and it lasted one season. I replaced the TA cam and went with a hotter Crower. The machining is quite noticeable.

Srecko bought a TA cam for his 73 Centurion and it only lasted a few weeks. He and I are not TA cam believers.

[Smartin]

Thanks for the info, I'll take a look.

[Smartin]

I fired up the heater in the garage this evening and went to work on he stainless.

I did a quick polish with the wheel on all the parts. The two end pieces need to be rechromed, but that can wait until I have some cash to blow...and someone to send them to.

Keith knows all about how difficult it is to drill the quarter extensions without ruining the parts. It only took me screwing up one hole before I figured it out:Dou: You can see the hole closest to the trunk lid went a little high on the extension. I'll need to work that out when I order paint for the car. I had some trouble getting a good picture since it was dark outside.

I was going nuts not working on the car in so long - I had to do something!!:Brow:

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/stainless_installed.jpg

[Centurion]

Thanks for the update, Adam.

You and Keith are not alone in having had difficulty with drilling the holes for the moldings on the rear quarter extensions. I didn't trust myself to get this right, so had a body shop/restorer handle the task. It was still messed up. Thankfully, I had an extra set of rear quarter extensions for a 2-door model. I love the moldings, but both rear quarter extensions ultimately required repainting after the job. And, of course, the paint did not match perfectly, as you can barely detect in this photo. Unfortunately, it's somewhat more obvious "in the flesh". I'm still sad (and really disappointed) about this, and probably need to try to come up with a better paint match. But I was reluctant to risk messing things up further.

http://photos.aaca.org/data/506/203Centurion_Rear_II-med.jpg

[Smartin]

I have a set of extensions with the holes drilled from the factory, but one of the extensions has a stud missing. I don't think that will really be an issue though. They seem to hold just fine with two nuts installed. Maybe I can get those painted, and if they look good, I'll swap them onto the car.

The holes have to be drilled at such an odd angle, that you can't get in there without a 12" drill bit. It's a tough job to find a 1/4" bit that long.

I ended up using a file to cut into the edge of the extension and drilling a 1/8" pilot hole, and then following up VERY carefully with a 7/32 bit. That worked like a charm. I had to hog out the holes a little bit one way or the other to get the trim studs to go in right, but it was perfect when I was done. I just wish I could've figured that out before I punch a gigantic hole in the first piece.

[Centurion]

Adam, as you likely know, Bob Alberini purchased his '72 Centurion in 1973. When he acquired the car, it also lacked the rear body moldings. He realized early on that he wanted to add these items, and he ordered them up when the pieces were still available from the parts counter at his local Buick dealership.

He reports that, when he had the dealership install the parts, he went to retrieve the car at the end of the day. The job was officially "done". To Bob's chagrin, they had installed the three parts on the trunk lid, but had avoided altogether adding the moldings to the rear quarter extensions. Needless to say, he insisted on having the job completed.

Adam, as I look at your exhaust tips peeking below the rear bumper, I'm reminded that mine look virtually identical to this since I had the exhaust system re-done last August.

[Smartin]

I had to cut those tips to that length. The guy who made the tailpipes for me left some extra pipe on the end just so I could get them where I wanted them. This is as close to stock as I could get it. I think it looks good:D

[Smartin]

A better shot...

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/stainless_installed002.jpg

[Centurion]

Adam, the moldings look great -- in keeping with the rest of this beautiful car. And, of course, your personalized license plate is terrific.

I especially like that the '71 decklid has both "Buick" spelled out in individual, block letters and the "Centurion" nameplate.

[Smartin]

Probably going under the knife this weekend, only to return as a fresh complete detail. It's either start NOW, or wait until after Easter. If I start now, I will try to make my deadline Easter Sunday so I can show it in the big Easter Show in Forest Park. I have everything I need, with the exception of a little paint....so it should go fairly well.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/before.jpg

[Smartin]

Well, it's been a month, and I finally started. I won't be making the Easter show with this car, but since I have the Wildcat now, I don't have to worry about having a car to take.

I made some progress today with disassembly. Almost everything from the water pump forward is out, with the exception of the AC condenser.

Look familiar?:D

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/started001.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/started002.jpg

[Eric B]

All in all a pretty nice car, too bad it's brown.;)

Seriously, that's a nice color. I wish mine wasn't white, I hate white. I'm going to paint mine dark green like Kimson's.

[Smartin]

That color really does jump out when you shine the light on it...very cool.

It's always difficult for me to describe the color.:confused:

[EEE]

I know what color it is, cause I've got two spare doors in it that I'm prepping for a swap :) I've been keeping my eyes open for what the new color would be on my car (if I ever get that far), and so far it's been leaning towards a champagne color either by infiniti (serengeti yellow) or mini (sparkling silver), both look very nice on the cars I've seen. I think it's important to see the actual color on a car, and not just on a paint chip in a catalog, it's a big difference. The dark green is nice that's on the car now, and was put on, on top of the antique gold that was the orignial color by some previous owner. But it's cracked like a turtle shell, and is flaking where they didn't prep properly.

[drail1eye]

What color is that I know it is not brown?

[Smartin]

Burnished Cinnamon...

It's very orange/copper colored when the light hits it. Check out the color on the fender in the last pictures I posted, and how the flash made the color pop out.

[drail1eye]

Do you happen to have the paint code for that color? I think I am going to paint my electra that color, or a deeper copper.

[Smartin]

Code 67, I do believe.

[Smartin]

...pretty much done with disassembly!

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/short_block.jpg

[EEE]

See that the cam is out, uncharted territory?

[Smartin]

Yes, which makes me slightly nervous about getting the cam in just right. I need to degree it, but don't know how...and I don't have all the necessary tools to do the job. I'm looking for someone who can help me out with it the first time.

[Robroy]

Maybe you can pick up some good info from this link for the general procedure.
http://www.amotion.com/tech/caminst.html

Best would be to have a Maintenance manual for the 455 with some good pictures that explains step by step the procedure.
As always it’s a good idea to talk with someone that has done this before.

[EEE]

It would be real cool if you could document it when you get to it, so that we who are a couple of years behind can have a chance at it at a later stage.

[Smartin]

Just a little closeup of some of the parts I cleaned up tonight..

These should look good all bolted back up!

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/condensor_brackets.jpg


I always wondered what these looked like out of the factory.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/intake_parts.jpg

[EEE]

The stuff in the bottom picture is new, right?

[Smartin]

Nope, none of it is new. It all came off the existing intake.

[centurion 455 ragtop]

OK Adam, whats the secret, how did you get themm that clean.

[Smartin]

Bench grinder with a wire wheel!

[EEE]

OK Adam, whats the secret, how did you get themm that clean.

Sucking on them while watching the simpsons, for seven days.

[Smartin]

...trying to keep my momentum up while it pours down rain!

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/ac_bracket.jpg


I need to bug Duane for a new control valve donut..

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/heater_control_valve.jpg


Thanks to Ted for saving the old Delco VR so I could use the cover with the new style regulator! I also got the AC lines cleaned up. The aluminum polished really nice!

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/voltage_regulator.jpg

[wildcat65]

:beers: to my mechanic Charlie Furlong, who did some last minute fixin' to the Centurion prior to the sale.
Those bits are looking fine there Adam!
:xyxthumbs:

[EEE]

I need one of those donuts, it's cutting into the heater hoses right now, including a countdown to make a hole.

[Smartin]

Got the cam, lifters, and timing cover installed this afternoon!

Lots of other little things started as well...just no real visual progress - unless you want to see a greasy engine block with a bare timing cover and new water pump on it:laugh:

[Smartin]

ok so I got the camera out...took some photos of things I'll be posting in regards to the equipment and tools I'm using to to the work.


Here's what I have for progress today...

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/cam_installed.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/table_parts.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/valve_covers.jpg

[EEE]

Was it tricky with da cam?

[Smartin]

Not tricky, I just needed to get some things straight in my head. I was confused about a few things. Once I figured it out, it was easy.

I did more degreasing today...getting ready to paint the underside of the hood, probably tomorrow or Wednesday.

[32kCenturion]

Adam, I know you want to pull that engine so you can get the crossmember clean too. Right? Then you would be able to clean the block really good. Those dirty steel brake lines run under there also.

[2mnykars]

I AGREE.. You have 3 bolts for the torque converter, 6-8 more for the transmission/engine, and a couple more for the motor mounts and out she comes. Pluse you may as well put in some new motor mounts while your that far into it and detail the transmission.:laugh:

[Smartin]

I'll get it clean...don't you worry!:D


Finished the brake booster and underhood/insulation...also cleaned up the AC box and worked on detailing the steering box.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/hood_insulation.jpg

[2mnykars]

Hey Adam:

Out of curiousity how are you/or have you cleaned the firewall in this and other cars. I am currently attempting to sand/primer/paint the firewall in my Chevelle (with engine in it) and it is a pain. Can't seem to get all the scratch marks and residue from appearing in the finished product. I've used sand paper and wire wheel but I don't get the desired effect. Let me know if you have any pointers. Thanks 2mnykars

[Smartin]

I have typically left the paint on the firewall, and just degreased the hell out of it. If there is a spot that needs asanding out, I do it with very fine paper to avoid sanding scratches. I also use multiple coats, and any scratches that are there will be filled in.

All the other black parts like the core support and wheel houses go down to bare metal. I use a DA for that big spots, and a drill with a wire wheel for the harder to reach spots. I usually end up doing a bunch by hand, as well.

[Smartin]

...majority of the black surrounding areas are painted!

I still have to get under the motor to clean it up a bit, but this is it for the night.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/black_painted.jpg

[Smartin]

Wiring harness is re-wrapped, cleaned, and roughed in, so I could get the battery cable hooked up to the starter. I'm trying to get all the lower tough-to-reach stuff done before I install the heads. I got very close to getting them put on the engine this evening, but I ran out of steam. I took off work early (3:30pm) and immediately started working.

Done today:

wiring harness clean & wrap
hood latch/grille support painted
power steering pump painted
pump hoses cleaned
transmission cooling lines cleaned
block prepped for head installation

It's getting exciting! (for me, anyway:D )

[EEE]

Any chicks yet?

[Smartin]

Does she qualify?

[EEE]

Only if you're not gay.. I thought you had lost yourself in the magical kingdom of Garage, and lost focus, but I see that's not the case :Brow: .. nice catch...

[centurion 455 ragtop]

That's it Adam is done:Dou: Next all his stuff will be going on sale, (check your loacl e-bay listing) to buy that huge rock:shocked: :rolleyes:

Very lovely woman there Adam.

[Smartin]

Don't get your tits caught in a beater guys, nothing's going up for sale:laugh:

She's movig to LA in August, and I'm not.

[EEE]

Let me know if she needs any help with anything when she gets here.. :beers:

On a second note, my neighbor Benjamin, who has drooled on your core support, called me last night; he was in need of help with changing his thermostat. Last thing I heard from him was that his engine in his Skylark had blown and that he had paid mucho dinero to have it rebuilt.

[Smartin]

workin' hard..

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/engine_painted.jpg

[Smartin]

I put in a long day in the garage...and it doesn't appear that I have much to show for it.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/engine_painted2.jpg


BUT all the firewall crap is back on.
Wiring harness is back in place.
Intake manifold goodies are in place.
Balancer pulley installed
Charcoal can installed
Horns
Battery tray
Washer jug
Coolant puke tank (NOS!)
Coolant bypass hose
Oil pump is primed
Broke the distributor:Dou:

I attempted to pull the distributor apart this morning, and mangled it up trying to get the breaker plate off. I got the snap ring off the top, but the thing just would not budge. So I gave up on replacing the vacuum can..and just put it back together so I could install it in the car. Well, I got it in the timing cover, and it was SO TIGHT, I could not turn it. And then I tried to pull it out. That took me another 30 minutes to get it OUT of the timing cover. That's how I killed it.:rant: It looks like Tom Rix has one for me, so I'll have it shipped to John Osborne for a rebuild. The carb is going there, too.

...and to think I was going to be able to start it up today.:rolleyes:

[EEE]

You know how it goes, three steps forwards, two steps backwards. I think you have to be a total pro to change that formula. It looks sweet otherwise, just a question regarding the heater hose valve thing sticking out of the radiator water outlet on top of the intake?

[Smartin]

hah, I left that sitting there after I had grabbed a bunch of parts to install from the basement. I never got to the heater control valve install..

[Smartin]

While I wait for my carb and distributor to return after the GS nats, I have been bolting on all the other stuff. I am going to wait to install the upper AC bracket until after I get the car running, for fear that I will have to readjust the pushrods.

The front bumper is also on my list...but I'm procrastinating that fun venture. I remember how much fun it was to reinstall on the LeSabre by myself.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/air_cleaner.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/almost_done.jpg

[Robroy]

The air cleaner looks like brand new:)

[EEE]

You can do the bumper yourself, I just did it. And I will have to do it again for the passenger side inner fender change, and then again when the fenders are to be changed later on :Dou: :Dou: :Dou: I put it on two tires so it doesn't have to be lifted that high. Then just get one bolt in on one side, and then one bolt on the other side. I think I then put my knee under it to lift it with my leg, while I got another bolt in there and then it was just a matter of getting the rest in there and adjusting. Oh, get one of those telescopic magnets to hold the bolt on so you can easily get it into place, and also out again when you drop it in the frame, cause you will.

[Smartin]

I just got back from the garage...tackled the bumper...

The magnet trick was a good one. Great minds think alike, eh, Kimson?:xyxthumbs:

I had to persuade it back into the proper alignment...it took me about 20 minutes to get it right. The car is whole, again!!!....with the exception of the distributor & carb.:rolleyes:

[EEE]

How about a carb and a dizzy? Not yet?

[Smartin]

Won't be ready until a week or so after the GS nats is over.

[EEE]

So when are the GS nats over? We want to see the brown car run.

[Smartin]

Well....the GS nats were over on Saturday.

I had a package delivered to my house today, but they require a signature for the package. I scheduled it for Satuday to be redelivered. Hopefully, I will get it in the morning, and I can get the cam broken in to test drive.

The car's just sitting under a cover right now. waiting....waiting...waiting

[EEE]

Under a cover in the garage???... Some cars have it good.

[Smartin]

waiting...patiently

I painted the insides of the front fenders this morning. It makes a huge difference when those are clean and uniform in color.

still waiting for the FedEx guy...:coffee: :sleep:

[EEE]

:coffee:

[Smartin]

WOOOOOOOOOOOO It runs!!!!


Changing oil in a few minutes, and going to go beat on it for a while.

It took about 30 minutes for us to get it to start. We were 180* out on the distributor.

[Smartin]

camalamadingdong

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbOKElVfitw

[EEE]

Sounds nice and bubbly, how was the break in performed?

[Smartin]

As soon as we got it started (that's another story), we immediately brought it up to 2000 RPM's and kept it there for 20 minutes. I then changed the oil and checked the timing again.

John Osborne doesn't believe in vacuum advance, so he put in a dummy can on the dist. I swapped it out for a working device with an advance limiter like I originally had in the convertible. The car will NOT idle with the vacuum advance hooked up. So I left it unplugged. It will instantly stall if I try to hook it up.

[EEE]

It will instantly stall if I try to hook it up. :confused2: If you can count the timing degrees and it's within reason for your setup it shouldn't right? Initial, mechanical, vacuum, or how it now goes.. I don't know, it's been a while since I was tinkering in that area, I guess you should ask the person who built both your distributor and carburetor. Maybe the Wiz at the v8 site has some good suggestions???

[Smartin]

I found the problem...

WHen I installed the new vac advance can, I kinked the wires for the crane XR-i module, and it shorted out. I now get to pay Jegs.com to send me one. Good way to pay for stupid mistakes!!! A good $70 lesson.

[Smartin]

Here it is in all its non-running glory...it is pretty, though:rolleyes:

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/engine_finished.jpg


It never went above 180* during the break-in, and the oil pressure was perfect. The only thing that killed the way, was my stupid mistake. It did start raining this evening, so I wouldn't have driven the car, anyway. I had it sticking halfway out of the garage when it smoked out on me. I had to get the neighbor to help me push it back into the garage.:coffee:

[EEE]

Too many drinks tonight.. :Dou:

:coffee:

[Bob Alberini]

It REALLY looks great, Adam. Buick never assembled them any better. You will work out the problems and be up and running soon.

[Robroy]

Sounds a looks very nice:xyxthumbs:
Nothing beats to harvest the success achieved by a lot of sweat and efforts.

[The German]

Adam, you are a real specialist to bring back a car to the beauty of its early days - unbelievable !
Thanks for showing us all the details of your work; it´s a good motivation for us to keep the cars in good condition or to make them better.

Good luck on all roads you will your beauty drive on !!
(on the other hand it would be a fine show car now ;) !)
______________
Rolf

[Smartin]

I fried the ignition module the other night when I was messing around with it. A new one from Jegs came today, along with new 8mm plug wires...so I'm back in business!

To do:

Torque convertor
Shift Kit
Governor recalibration
Hang guages
Buff paint
Detail undercarriage
Detail wheel wells

There's not much to do with the trunk and interior except vacuum :grin:

First cruise this Satuday night!! ....if it doesn't rain.

[Robroy]

What kind of hang gauges do you have?
I was thinking about installing a temperature gauge myself. Don’t really feel comfortable with those warning lights for overheated engine. What’s the experience of this system? I know that there are two separate sensors and two warning lights which seem safe enough, but a gauge is always a gauge where you can see the temperature trend.

[Smartin]

Get an Autometer mechanical temperature gauge. They are said to be the best brand to use.

[Robroy]

Can one of the original sensors be used to such?

[Robroy]

Oh, I see now you suggested a mechanical temperature gauge, then the original electrical sensor will not work:Dou: .
Guess that mechanical temperature gauge comes with a sensor that fits the thread where the original one is placed, or?

[EEE]

Correct, the new gauges will have their own sensors that you replace the old ones with.

The oil pressure sensor is on the passenger side of the engine block up at the front just above where the oil filter is.

The water sensor goes at the front on the intake manifold.

Autometer is nice, but as with everything it has its price too. I bought a 4-gauges set for 20$ from Summit and put it under the ash tray section. I guess it's taking a chance, but it seems to work so far. I always keep an eye on it.

I also put in a tach, it helps with the tuning and when you're at the track.

[Smartin]

Kimson, I have that exact tach!


I took the car for a spin this evening after a quick wash. I stopped by the neighbors' house and shot a few photos.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/windcastle001.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/windcastle002.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/windcastle003.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/windcastle004.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/windcastle005.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/windcastle006a.jpg

[Robroy]

Looks like brand new!

Thanks Kimson for the Gauge info

[The German]

... super pictures :xyxthumbs: - I loaded them to print them for a great Centurion-picture-mosaic ! It´s one of the best looking Centurions I ever saw.
I love mine, but as you know the colour is not of such a good quality as yours - some pics more of those nice like-new-cars and I guess I´ll run to get new paint ... !

Again: good luck on all roads !
_________________
Rolf

[scottrod]

The car looks great, Adam. You have a real ability to bring these cars back from the brink. I can't imagine the time invested. Your lady must be more understanding than mine :o !!!
I did want to ask you or Kimson where you are mounting your gauges. I've tried a couple different spots but don't like the look. Any pictures????

[EEE]

How's the thrust in the rocket?

[Bob Alberini]

You've captured your beautiful Centurion in full glory, Adam. If we could turn back the clock to the summer of 1970, the photos you took could easily be used for the new 1971 sales catalog. The car just looks fantastic and we all know how much you've invested. I'm sure the end result was well worth all of your efforts!

[Smartin]

Thanks guys! It feels good to have the car on the road again, and not collect dust in the garage.

Kimson, the car pulls HARD when above 2500 RPM, but is slow off the line, due to the stock torque convertor. I have a new 2500 stall convertor, and will install it soon....I hope.

My gauges are mounted on the bottom flange of the dashboard, just in front of the gas pedal. They are the smallest ones I could get, so they are really not in the way. I will pull them off the mounting screws and tuck them up under the dash during shows.

[Centurion]

Adam, your photos are without doubt the finest "Formal Coupe" photos I've ever seen! Absolutely stunning.

I especially like the shot with the 3/4 rear/side view that clearly shows that subtle Centurion paint stripe.

Thanks for sharing these.

[Centurion]

On the subject of photos, I'm confident that "Collectible Automobile" magazine will write a story in the not-too-distant future about the 1971 - 1976 full-size Buicks. (Similar stories have already appeared regarding Chevrolet, Pontiac, and Cadillac.)

Given the magazine's trademark use of lavish color photos, I keep thinking that Smartin's Burnished Cinnamon beauty would be a fabulous cover car. I think we need to contact the magazine editor. Perhaps an article focusing strictly on the '71 - '73 Centurion would be a possibility.

[Smartin]

oh?:)


That would be the coolest thing...ever.


Also, this is making me think about our first Centurion calendar! 2008 anyone?:Brow:

[Centurion]

Okay, Adam, I'll contact the "Collectible Automobile" editor regarding this possibility. Bob and others may recall the 1962 - 1970 Buick Wildcat received exclusive treatment; perhaps the Centurions can also qualify.

Regarding the calendar, yes, let's pursue this! I don't know whether you ordered one of the buick-59.com calendars, Adam, but these turned out to be fabulous -- and have proven to be a nice fund raiser to maintain the site. You've observed the process we went through to obtain photos at buick-59.com, so perhaps something similar could be accomplished here.

[Bob Alberini]

I like the thinking, on both counts, that you guys are considering. It would be an incredible feat to think that OUR Centurions could have an article all to their own and there are so many calendar photo candidates that the options seem endless.

[wildcat65]

The car looks great, Adam. You have a real ability to bring these cars back from the brink. I can't imagine the time invested. Your lady must be more understanding than mine :o !!!
I did want to ask you or Kimson where you are mounting your gauges. I've tried a couple different spots but don't like the look. Any pictures????

My garage has a new name - the Brink!
Awesome job there Adam!
I need you to bring one of my cars back from the Brink ;)

[Smartin]

I'm for hire, Ted! You know my number..

[EEE]

Are you going to have a shop put in the converter? Or can you get your transmission out in your garage?

[Smartin]

I have a transmission shop down the road from me, so I'll call them to see if they'll do it, and for how much. If it's not outrageous, then I'll just have them swap it out.

[Smartin]

Let the buffing commence!:rolleyes:

I started using 3000 grit with the original paint, but it was way too fine. So I moved to 2000 and sanded lightly. All I am aiming to do, is knock the high spots off the paint.

It seems to be working rather well:xyxthumbs: You can see the other side of the trunk lid - although it's covered in dust, the sheen of the paint is not the greatest.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/buffing001.jpg

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/buffing002.jpg

[EEE]

I take it it's freshly buffed by now, maybe we should have some more pics to drool over? We also want a full report on how the stall converter behaves + and -...

[Smartin]

I haven't gotten much further on the buffing job. I just made it to the right quarter panel, and no more. I hope to get the rest done this evening and into tomorrow morning...I have a show on Sunday.

[Smartin]

Dust won't even stick to this paint:Brow:

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/paint_finished.jpg

[Smartin]

I went to a local show today that I had attended last year. I took the 71 LeSabre last year and received a 3rd place trophy. I took the Centurion this year and got 2nd in my class. Bob Windal (70 GS 455) also took 2nd in his class.

It rained a LOT!! I also have a show tomorrow. Hopefully, it won't rain like it did today. As you can see in the photo, it was still raining when we left.

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/coupe/civic_park002a.jpg

[EEE]

Congrats on the 2nd place :) anyhting in particular that needs to be fixed to make it to the No. 1 spot?

[Smartin]

Considering the 63 Impala was perfect, I have a lot of work to do. I did get best in class today, though.

[EEE]

Is it also true that you are planning on putting in a 5-speed later on and documenting it while you do it, then sending me all the info with pics/instructions step-by-step 24h phone support, parts numbers, suppliers, etc etc etc right? :Brow:

[Smartin]

I'll think about it.:Dou: :spank:

[Bob Alberini]

Hopefully you are done thinking about the 5 speed idea! Congrats on your finish, Adam. You should be very pleased. I heard that St. Louis got more rain today so how did today's show turn out?

[Smartin]

The turnout got better as the morning went on. We got some rain as soon as I parked the car at 9:30, but it was pretty much dry the rest of the day. We had some nice cars out today. The same 63 Impala was there today, but was in a different class this time.

[The German]

Congratulations first, Adam, hope the rain will stop when seeing that beautiful car ;) . BTW did you protect the car against rust that will increase without any protection with the humidity in the air ?
_______________
Rolf

[Smartin]

I have done a small amount of rust protection, but need to do more. Mostly inside the body panels.

[EEE]

I think it would be real nice to have a 5-speed, the ultimate commitment..

[EEE]

Has the transmission shop given you a quote on the converter swap?

[Smartin]

Yeah, they want $300...

I'll be doing it with a friend before August comes along.

[EEE]

ouch, are you getting a transmission cage/holder and using a regular jack, or do you have access to some other fancier extraction equipment?

[Smartin]

Just a couple floor jacks and a friend...

[wildcat65]

You may need more vertical room than a standard floor jack will allow-
at least if the trannie has to come all the way out... for convertor change
you are probably OK, but I know you will want to get that TH400 all cleaned up and shiny:laugh:
Ted

[Robroy]

Just make sure you have ALL connections released before you start lowering the jack.
I had overlooked to release the kick-down wire when I took down a TH350 once, broke the wire and the arm inside the transmission. Got a new wire for a dollar plus that my friend welded that little arm/bracket, so it all turned out well anyway.
An automatic is normally much easier to take down than a manual since you don’t have the axel to slide out from; you just unbolt the converter and take it right down.
Just swapping the converter can probably be made by reversing the transmission enough to get it out, if there is enough space that is as Ted already have pointed out.

[Robroy]

Added a day later;
You probably have thought of this already being a skilful mechanic, but just in case you didn’t;
Make sure to replace the sealing where the converter enters the transmission with a new one. This sealing is a very common cause for leak of transmission oil, especially when the car is not used for longer periods.
The pict below shows the type of sealing I had in mind. I have hard time with the denominations since English not is my mother tongue (all the time actually).

[Smartin]

Thanks for the suggestion, Per. I do have that on my list to do when I pull the transmission.

[Smartin]

Convertor swap is finished! I did it by myself today. I was supposed to have a friend help, but he had other things come up, so I decided to jump in and do it. How else will I learn??

I have only driven it around the block, but it screams. I will definitely have to get used to this.:Brow:

[EEE]

Tell us more about the screaming?!? How was it, tricky? Have you installed the transgo 1-2 shift kit and done the governor recalibration on it already? :user:

[Smartin]

The car will actually idle now! I don't have to two-foot it like I was doing with the stock convertor.

I love how I can mash the pedal and the tires just roast off - the tach goes straight to 2500 RPM. I feel like I'm driving a manual shift car if I am taking off from a stoplight, since the convertor really doeasn't allow the car to creep or go forward until I bring the rev's up. ...almost like a clutch.

The job was interesting. I spilled about 4 quarts of ATF on the ground in the process. The convertor is FULL of fluid, so when you pull it off the shaft, it spills everywhere, and there's no where to put a catch pan with the floor jack in the way.

It took me from 10am to 3:30pm to finish the job. It was my first time, so the next one will be much faster, since I know what to do and what to expect. I had to make a trip to Home Depot to pick up some washers to use as spacers with the new convertor bolts.

I have the transgo kit and governor kit on order, and they all should be here by late this week or next week. That'll complete the job. Another 5 quarts of ATF, too! ...and an ATF shampoo to keep things going while I install the shift kit.

[EEE]

D..R..E..W..L

There's only one last question to make it or break it, how streetable is it with the higher stall number, driving in traffic and highway? :confused:

[EEE]

slicks?

[Smartin]

I will need slicks to hook on the track.

It's very streetable. Highway speeds I will be at or above the stall speed of the convertor, so it's fine there. Street-wise, it just winds up to 2000 RPM and finally gets going...a little on the weird side, but no big deal.

[EEE]

How does it feel in comparison to the white car on power? Are we talking 13ssssss...

[Smartin]

It's like night and day...really. This car just keeps going...I haven't taken it above the stock shift points yet, so I know it has more HP above 4500 RPM.

[EEE]

Where do you want it to shift, 5000? more?

[Smartin]

The power range of the cam is up to 6000RPM, and the heads will handle it....but I will never go that high on a stock short block. I will probably go for somewhere between 5000 and 5200 RPM...depending on how the car feels at that RPM range.

[EEE]

You think it's overkill to have a cam that has a range that high, or is it "hot" all the way, and it will just rev that high?

[Smartin]

The power band of the cam is 2000-6000 RPM according to TA's catalog. Once it hits 2000-2500, it's HOT!

[EEE]

When do we get to hear about a track encounter, anything scheduled?

[Smartin]

2 weeks at the BPG HP national in Columbus, OH.

[Robroy]

Sounds like a cool equipment that new converter of yours
I’m impressed that you managed to swap it on your own. Taken down the transmission is typically a two man job unless you have fancy workshop equipment.

Maybe you could upload some of that scream on Youtube for us :Brow:

[Smartin]

It was a tough job by myself, that's for sure.

I might have a short clip with the camera in the car while I drive around here sometime soon.

[wildcat65]

COOL, see you @ da 'nats we need to catch up on :beers: :beers: :beers:

I think I will be driving the Special Wag gone; not the boat. :spank:
Think I can change my cam and heads in 2 weeks? I'll be in Seattle for the BCA too. ack
Ted

[Smartin]

Got meats?:Brow:

Going to Gateway International Raceway tomorrow evening for some test and tune..

[72gsx4me]

Adam,

What size rims and tires do you use for the track? The car looks real tough.:cool:

[Smartin]

Those are 15x8 wheels, and they have the wrong backspacing. I need to sink the wheels further into the wells so I don't have to pump up the shocks so much. If I deflate the shocks, my right tire rubs. I have 1/4" of clearance on the left side.

[72gsx4me]

Adam,

Are the rims custom Buick 5 on 5 or are they aftermarket like Cragar? Can you post pic of them face side showing? If they are custom 5 on 5 Buick, where did you have them done? What backspacing would you recommend on a Centurion?

What size MT Drag Radials are you using?

Thanks for the info. I know I am a year a two away before I would need, but I am planning ahead. Kimson looks like he is having a lot of fun at the track and it is got to be a blast to see the land yaghts go against some of these newer cars.

Will:cool:

[EEE]

Since Adam is busy planning the irrigation system for a golf course or similar, I'll quote his answer to that question:

"Well, I got those rims from another member 2 years ago, and they have the wrong backspacing. They stick out a little too far, and I had to pump up the air shocks to keep the right side from rubbing. The left side has a quarter inch of clearance from the sidewall of the tire to the wheel opening.

I need to get a set of wheels with about 1.5" more backspacing than the current wheels.

The wheels are 15x8", and the tires are 275/50/15's. They're 26" tall, they give me a little bit more gearing, due to being shorter than the stock tire. They HOOK, too. I had no traction problems.
."


I guess you don't have to go wider since he's got all the traction he needs, but 295 will probably fit in there. The rims look like some aftermarket deal. I think it might be possible to widen a set of original rallye rims. At least on the back side of the rim. You would slice the rim in half and then weld in a metal band in the middle and sandwich the rim back together. I have seen it done on other steel rims, I'm not sure on how the chromed front would react when the rim gets hot during the welding.

[Smartin]

Made only 2 runs this evening, since the junior dragsters had taken over the entire track.

14.29
14.27

Man, I wish I was bracket racing tonight. Pretty consistent!

[Robroy]

As said before, pretty impressive for a fully loaded boat:beers:
14.25 is the current record, right?
Maybe you could get someone to film next race to upload on Youtube, that’s always cool to watch

[Smartin]

Long overdue update!

I'm sure most of you know my new best time for the track is 13.89 - run last year at Gateway in St. Louis.

Tonight, I picked up the car from the shop after they loaded the AC up with R12. ICE cold AC now!!! Even better than the tan LeSabre I sold John. I'll be comfortable on the way to Columbus in a month, now!

[Sweepspear]

Long overdue update!

I'm sure most of you know my new best time for the track is 13.89 - run last year at Gateway in St. Louis.

Tonight, I picked up the car from the shop after they loaded the AC up with R12. ICE cold AC now!!! Even better than the tan LeSabre I sold John. I'll be comfortable on the way to Columbus in a month, now!

When I owned my '72 Electra, I had the AC serviced before a trip to South Dakota. This was in 1990.
The older guy that worked on it was so excited when I picked it up at the end of the day, he had to show me with a thermometer what he accomplished. http://www.clicksmilies.com/s1106/huepfen/jumping-smiley-019.gif

"38* at the vent! You'll never get that out of any newer car!" he said.

[Smartin]

AC stopped working 3 days before I left for Columbus, and I spun the #7 and 8 rod bearings on the engine during a dyno run.

Towed the car to the track and transplanted a 72 455 that I bought from a club member. It got me home...

Too bad I'm too broke to fix the engine right now! I just HAD to buy that 58.:rooleyes2:

[centurion 455 ragtop]

Real sorry about the news Adam. You bit the racing bug and unfortunately it bites back sometimes $$$$. I am glad the boys helped you out. Your now considered family with the NE Guys.:beers:

No doubt when you get things in order you'll be back in the field. I guess one question would be is why did the bearings fail. That info will be helpful on your rebuild. As you well know it takes many band aids to keep these engines alive on the track. Geez my race engine has enough band aids you can stock a Wal Mart store:D.

Sorry I missed the BPG event. Work just slowed down to zero, summer time it slows a bit but my companys two owners went thru a nasty split so the business tanked. It's just starting now to pick back up again. I thank God I am pensioned from the City already, which takes care of all the necessary house bills, without extra cash it would be difficult to tell the Mrs, "See ya I'm going racing, oh and by the way honey why don't you work some extra days while I'm gone:eek:" I think she would have shoved a cam shaft pretty high up beyond the site of light:spank: So I pulled the pin and stayed home:bawl: On the plus side I didn't break anything:Brow:

Anyway Adam keep us posted when you do the autopsy on your engine. Hang iin there!

[Robroy]

AC stopped working 3 days before I left for Columbus, and I spun the #7 and 8 rod bearings on the engine during a dyno run.

Towed the car to the track and transplanted a 72 455 that I bought from a club member. It got me home...

Too bad I'm too broke to fix the engine right now! I just HAD to buy that 58.:rooleyes2:
That’s a tough brake Adam and the timing couldn’t be worse :tonge2::(.
Like Rick I wonder what could make two rod bearings give up at the same time? The answer will probably come when you take the engine apart. Hopefully there’s something to learn from this, both for you and us.
It will work out somehow, hang in there bud

My rattling engine noise has increased lately, seems like Centurion people are having bad karma right now :rolleyes:

[The German]

Really bad luck, Adam, hope you can get the engine back to life again.
I also wonder what the exact reason for that bearings crash would have been; hope you´ll find it out.

GOOD luck again, Adam !

[EEE]

:( :(:( sigh

[MichelHaak]

That's not the news we want to hear... Good luck with the repairs. :shocked:

[centurion 455 ragtop]

My rattling engine noise has increased lately, seems like Centurion people are having bad karma right now :rolleyes:

Since work slowed down this past 2 months I haven't taken my Centurion out since June 8th :eek: when I returned home towing the racecar from the Buicks at Norwalk Event. (1200 miles round trip). Since then I just had it out in the driveway and spent the better half of two days detailing and servicing it and then tucked her away under the cover. Haven't even looked at her since then. Even has a full tank of Sunoco ultra 93, which I think I paid darn near a dollar less a gallon back then:laugh: So I figure I should be safe from any bad karma being I haven't driven her. Knock on wood!

Planning on taking her out soon, it will seem like a brand new car being I haven't used it in a while.

[Smartin]

I know how I killed it. I had the oil pressure regulator adjusted too low. And since I had never revved it up to 5500 RPM, I never knew it didn't have enough. Soooo....I burned it up.

#7 and 8 rod bearings are always the first to go, because they are the last to get oil.

[centurion 455 ragtop]

Adam

Next time around run another oil line feed to the rear of the block. Good insurance for those high rpm hits.

[Sweepspear]

Bummer!
How did you get the failed engine back home?
I've had short blocks in my trunks, but not whole engines.
Someone with a trailer going your way?

It's really impressive though the stories I have read of how others get together to help out those with engines that went South while at an event.

You'll get her back together. Better, stronger.
"We have the technology" :laugh:

[Smartin]

The entire engine is in the trunk :D It's a 4-man job to get it in and out. I'll have to recruit some neighbors to get it out before Saturday.

[The German]

I know how I killed it. I had the oil pressure regulator adjusted too low. And since I had never revved it up to 5500 RPM, I never knew it didn't have enough. Soooo....I burned it up.
#7 and 8 rod bearings are always the first to go, because they are the last to get oil.

Adam, as far as I know the oil flow bypass valve opens at 40PSI, so you will get not more oil flow at higher pressure – correct ? If that´s right, the following thought must be right also: The pressure increases with RPM of the engine and I guess although if adjusted for lower pressure your oil pump would bring more than 40PSI at 5500 RPM, so that a further increased pressure could not prevent your engine (?). That´s why I would think about Rick´s advice regarding another oil line to the back of the engine or about taking an oil with lower weight which will bring more flow at the same pressure level. A 3rd possibility would be to add an emergency additive to the oil.

[Robroy]

I know how I killed it. I had the oil pressure regulator adjusted too low. And since I had never revved it up to 5500 RPM, I never knew it didn't have enough. Soooo....I burned it up.

#7 and 8 rod bearings are always the first to go, because they are the last to get oil.
According to the 73 Buick service manual the oil pressure relief valve should kick in at 60 Lbs (Psi),
What did you have yours set to Adam?

[Smartin]

I had the adjustable regulator, and it was not set high enough.

[drail1eye]

Adam sorry bout your luck, but damn if the same **** didn't happen to me. So I had the whole motor gone through, and it is better than new, and now the bad part. I need to sell the car to get the car of my dreams a 64 riv! So I will be post pics of the 73 2dr coupe ASAP for a quick sell!

[Centurion]

Adam, I've got to admit . . . your story broke my heart.

But I'm encouraged by one simple fact. Among the Buick folks I know, you are the one in whom I have greatest confidence to get your car back together again. I have no doubt that the Burnished Cinnamon beauty will be re-united with its mighty 455 in the near future!

[Smartin]

Speaking of Buick folks, here is a list of people directly involved in the event that allowed me to drive home safe this weekend:

http://www.buickperformancegroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7147

[Centurion]

You know, Adam, as I began reading through the linked thread from the Buick Performance Group forum, a thought came to mind. And, when I read Sean Ryder's post, I realized that he conveyed that thought perfectly:

"Actually, Adam, it is a testament to you...you are an upstanding person in the Buick community and well respected and you would do the same if the shoe was on the other foot."

[EEE]

But I'm encouraged by one simple fact. Among the Buick folks I know, you are the one in whom I have greatest confidence to get your car back together again. I have no doubt that the Burnished Cinnamon beauty will be re-united with its mighty 455 in the near future! I agree

[Robroy]

Have you made any plans yet Adam?
I assume/hope your engine block did make it?
If I remember correct your engine was partly rebuilt (heads etc) like last winter or so…

[Smartin]

I just got the block out of the trunk last night.

I will have new pistons, bearings, cam, and lifters. But it's going to be a few months before I can afford all that new shiny stuff.

[Robroy]

But it's going to be a few months before I can afford all that new shiny stuff.
I know the feeling; I just spent a lot more than I had planed to on a daily driver, so the Centurion account is lower than low right now :tonge2:…..especially after buying a 320 dollar battery for it the other weekend :rolleyes:

[centurion 455 ragtop]

I know the feeling; I just spent a lot more than I had planed to on a daily driver, so the Centurion account is lower than low right now :tonge2:…..especially after buying a 320 dollar battery for it the other weekend :rolleyes:


I know that feeling. Right now Mr. Fundslow is staying at my house he should be on his way by the end of August:D as my job is picking up more business $$$$$

Get it...Mr Fundslow? Funds Low :rolleyes:

If you want to see a Buick engine that has been totally destroyed, by far one of the worst blow ups check out this thread over on the Buick Performance Group site.

http://www.buickperformancegroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7182

If have to sign up as a member (its free) in order to view the photos on the posts. Great site:xyxthumbs:

[Robroy]

If you want to see a Buick engine that has been totally destroyed, by far one of the worst blow ups check out this thread over on the Buick Performance Group site.

http://www.buickperformancegroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7182
Holy... :shocked: :eek:

Came to think on it the other day but forgot to ask, where do you guys typically buy your 455 parts? TA-performance, JEGS or maybe some other place?
What is the common experienced on the quality for these engine parts? Does it alter a lot or keep a fairly even level among the vendors?
Is there any specific brands to avoid on bearings, rings etc?

[centurion 455 ragtop]

Holy... :shocked: :eek:

Came to think on it the other day but forgot to ask, where do you guys typically buy your 455 parts? TA-performance, JEGS or maybe some other place?
What is the common experienced on the quality for these engine parts? Does it alter a lot or keep a fairly even level among the vendors?
Is there any specific brands to avoid on bearings, rings etc?

Most of the specialty performance parts can be bought by TA Performance or Finish Line Performance, parts such as heads, pistons, rods. Summit & Jegs has good prices too. Also never under estimate Amazon.com. I read on one of the Buick sites a guy got a great price on a new carb.

On my race engine I acquired the intake, heads, valves, flexplate, block girdle some of the gaskets, pistons from TA the rest was acquired thru other performance companies. On my Centurion I used their oil pump, intake and exhaust valves and retainers & keepers. The rest is all stock and acquired parts from my local engine machine shop (stock replacement .030 over pistons, rings bearings etc. Piston rods are stock are reconditioned.

For a street strip build up go to TA Performance. Bearings you want full groved mains and their cam bearings. If you happen to rebuild your engine please ask here for questions. The front cam bearing on the 455 has to be placed correctly on a stock or mild rebuild in order to supply oil correctly to the other side of the engine. Most Chevy builders pay no mind to this and just pop in the bearing. This happend to me back in the mid 1980's and my engine wiped out all the bearings just on break in.

TA is a great source for parts and the quality is great too. They are always my first choice along with Finish Line Performance when I want any performance parts. But first always check and ask on the Buick web sites. Most times you will be pointed in the right direction and you may find some good used parts saving some money.

If you are building an engine pretty much stock, most engine parts can be gotten anywhere.

[dewbers]

Adam- sorry to hear about your luck, but found it pretty cool that so many rallied around you when you needed it... Good luck on this project. Look forward to following your progress.
Rick - great advice. Hope I don't need this anytime soon, but with 119,000 miles, I am sure the time is coming.
Per - tell me more on this noise you're hearing. I got the girl out today to drive (after sitting for 3 wks) and noticed a small tapping noise on the drivers side underneath. It was new to me... I AM WORRIED!

[centurion 455 ragtop]

Steve

I wouldn't be too concerned. If she was sitting for a few weeks it may just be a sticky lifter tap. It should quiet down once she is driven a while, or it may be a small exhaust leak on that side.

With 119,000 miles I wouldn't worry. As long as your not beating the snot out of her these engines with proper maintenance and easy driving should last well past 100,000. My old engine was over 155,000 before I did a rebuild. She was still running fine and I was towing with it. I just figured after planning a rebuild for a few years the time was right to do it. Wanted a fresh engine because of the towing and I do sometimes drive her hard.

[dewbers]

You were right about the ticking Rick, it went away. Must have been that lifter tap.... it's gone and she's running great... except I put Shell 93 Octane in her and now she's making all kinds of noise... I always run Sunoco 93 and it's never done this, but that Shell must be lousy gas! It's pinging and banging whenever I step heavy into her. Pretty aggravating!

Adam - any updates on your project?

[centurion 455 ragtop]

You were right about the ticking Rick, it went away. Must have been that lifter tap.... it's gone and she's running great... except I put Shell 93 Octane in her and now she's making all kinds of noise... I always run Sunoco 93 and it's never done this, but that Shell must be lousy gas! It's pinging and banging whenever I step heavy into her. Pretty aggravating!

Adam - any updates on your project?
Glad I was right on that. As for the gas, these cars are the true judges on whether the gas is bad or good. Few years back towing out to Norwalk, Ohio after a fill up of Exxon 92 somewhere in PA the car started to ping when I was climbing the hills. After the next fill up it was gone. Sometimes either the gas is old inside those tanks or they may play the old switch-a-roo with the gas blends. A few months ago it was all over the local news a bunch of communters got stranded in northern New Jersey. It turn out they traced it back to a gas station sell low priced fuel that had almost half water inside the their tank. They of course blamed it on the filling truck that it must have gotten water in it some how...???:spank: yeah right!:spank:

[Smartin]

Rods and crank are off to be reconditioned. I will hear about the crank condition hopefully soon...since I ovalled it pretty good. Block is still sitting here in the garage.

[Robroy]

Rods and crank are off to be reconditioned.
Just curious, are new rods expensive? And who would sell them? TA ?

[Smartin]

Yes, TA sells them, but I don't know how much they are off-hand.

In other news, I found out that I fried my crank.

[centurion 455 ragtop]

Just curious, are new rods expensive? And who would sell them? TA ?

Per
If you are thinking on getting replacement rods for your engine, unless you are building a performance race engine I would stick to stock rods. TA does sell rods for stock engines see the link;

http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=203

After you mail them your old ones and mail new ones back, you are going to be in the area of 300-400+ U.S. dollars. My opinion, that is WAY too much to spend on a stock or mild rebuilt 455.

You mentioned that you will be in South Carolina sometime this year. My thought on this is search e-bay and the various Buick boards for a set of stock unused rods. If you find a set have them shipped to your friends and then take them home with you. The only aftermarket item I would buy is the ARP Rod Bolts. Highly recommended. They are not expensive and good insurance for those stock rebuilds that are occassionally run at the track or see quite a few stop light action runs. TA does sell them and I am pretty sure you can get them direct from ARP.

But before you go and do all of this inquire first at home what the price would be to have your existing rods re-conditioned. You may find the price will be close to the same. THen you would be better off doing things close to home.

I will be at a Buick race meet this weekend in New Jersey. Just for the hell of it I will ask around if someone has an unused set of stock rods willing to part with them. You never know, sometimes you hit it right. As for my parts bin I have 2 sets of stock bore 455 pistons from engines that were never run. Bought the factory short blocks years back and just needed the blocks. As for rods I don't have any stock ones. One set is in my Centurion and the other set is long gone after aerating the side of a block on my old street/strip race engine

[centurion 455 ragtop]

Sorry Adam, I don't mean to hyjack your thread.

Per check out the ebay link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110283647817&indexURL=1#ebayphotohosting

Stock rods:xyxthumbs:

[Robroy]

Sorry Adam, I don't mean to hyjack your thread.

Per check out the ebay link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110283647817&indexURL=1#ebayphotohosting

Stock rods:xyxthumbs:
Rick (and others), please see my reply in the rattling noise thread
http://www.buickcenturion.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7289#post7289

Sorry to hear about your crank Adam…

[EEE]

In other news, I found out that I fried my crank.

Crap, sure seems like you have your hands full at the moment. Is it salvageable? What's he order of plans? Rebuild engine, then work on the 58, or some other plan?

[Smartin]

I can keep disassembling the 58, but will concentracte funds to rebuilding the heart of the Formal Coupe so I can assure myself a car to race next year.

[Smartin]

Heads are in the middle of an overhaul. All new seals, guides, and a valve job. I thought this would be something I didn't need to worry about, but I pulled them apart, and the valves were CAKED with carbon. No wonder it drank oil....valve seals sucked.

[MichelHaak]

:confused:Wow ok, the heads are only 1 year mounted or something like that, right Adam?

[Smartin]

Yep, totally fresh set of heads. I think they were more geared for a race motor...and not one that was to be driven a lot.

[Robroy]

and the valves were CAKED with carbon.
I may be all wrong here but doesn’t that indicate a too low temperature in the head/valve?

[Smartin]

Sorry Per, I forgot to respond to your question.

It's a possibility that was a cause for the carbon buildup, but the car drank oil pretty briskly. I have a good feeling that it was the valve guide seals that were weak.

I found a good crankshaft in Texas while I was there for Thanksgiving this week. "Horsman" on v8buick let me have it for nothing. What a deal!!

[Robroy]

Sorry Per, I forgot to respond to your question.

It's a possibility that was a cause for the carbon buildup, but the car drank oil pretty briskly. I have a good feeling that it was the valve guide seals that were weak.

I found a good crankshaft in Texas while I was there for Thanksgiving this week. "Horsman" on v8buick let me have it for nothing. What a deal!!
No sweat Adam,

I have had a few cars with bad valve guide seals and they all typically had blue exhausts at start-up and after pushing the engine hard and then releasing the throttle.

There is an old trick how to replace the valve guide seals with the heads still on the engine, you probably heard of it….:D
You take an old sparkplug and remove the china only leaving the metal socket, and then you weld on a compressed air connection. That device is then used to set pressure inside the cylinder preventing the valves to fall down when removing the valve cap retainers to release the valve spring and finally access the valve guide seals.
To do this you need a tool to compress the valve spring that can be used with the heads on the engine.

Glad to hear about the free of charge crankshaft, one step closer to a working engine! :beers:

[Smartin]

I ordered all the parts for rebuild on Tuesday of last week. Here are the details:

10 or 10.5-1 compression ratio is the goal, depending on how much we take off the block
TA forged pistons with valve reliefs +.030
Stock reconditioned polished rods
Stock crank -.010
TA288-98H cam
Roller rockers ($$$ ouch!!)
70 Stage1 ported heads with new bronze guides and seals
Extreme duty race bearings - mains & rods
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold - gasket matched
800 CFM QJet by John Osborne
Xrane XR-i ignition

The transmission will probably stay the same, although I am having thoughts of buying a convertor from TriShield Perf. I'll also have to recalibrate the governor to shift at higher points. It's shifting automatically at around 4800rpm.

I hope to have the engine dyno'ed by the end of January, and back in the car just after that.

[Austrian455]

Adam,
If you want to modify your tranny you should contact Broader Performance.
I had the Cruise-O-Matic of my 64 Thunderbird at Broader. They rebuilt it with heavy duty kevlar clutches and bands. Broader is doing great jobs on Performance transmissions. Maybe you know how difficult it is to find Cruiso parts. Further you yon´t find performace parts for this transmission. But Broader can do anything you want. I also told them to do some valve body reprogramming and to rebuild the torque converter, modify it to an FMX pump drive and raise the stall to 2200.
They run all transmissions on the dyno before shipping.
When I received my Cruise O it looked like new. And since I have it in the car
the 390 Thunderbird runs 15.10 on the 1/4 mile. :laugh:
After this I called Broader again and asked them if they would build a TH400 for a 494 Buick stroker to stand about 650 - 700 HP. I was told that this shouldn´t be a problem. They built trannys for engines up to 2000 HP.
The price for my performace Cruise-O was also OK.
Maybe you should call them.

http://broaderperformance.com/

(817) 599-9400 ask for Jay, he is the owner of the shop.

[nick rabi]

I ordered all the parts for rebuild on Tuesday of last week. Here are the details:

10 or 10.5-1 compression ratio is the goal, depending on how much we take off the block
TA forged pistons with valve reliefs +.030
Stock reconditioned polished rods
Stock crank -.010
TA288-98H cam
Roller rockers ($$$ ouch!!)
70 Stage1 ported heads with new bronze guides and seals
Extreme duty race bearings - mains & rods
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold - gasket matched
800 CFM QJet by John Osborne
Xrane XR-i ignition

The transmission will probably stay the same, although I am having thoughts of buying a convertor from TriShield Perf. I'll also have to recalibrate the governor to shift at higher points. It's shifting automatically at around 4800rpm.

I hope to have the engine dyno'ed by the end of January, and back in the car just after that.

Good thinking with the piston valve reliefs,I never gave that a thought and I am now limited with cam choices.Also,
is Osborne stll doing Q-jets??.I thought I had read somewhere that because of the pulloff supply,he was not doing them.Dam this need for speed with our land yachts!:xyxthumbs::D

[Smartin]

I am still running the JO carb from the other engine. He said that as long as you have the right pulloff, he'll do it. (but that was amost a year ago I saw that). I will probably call him to see if he can modify mine any more to go with this combo.

Since i was going to use the 413 cam in the first place, I needed the reliefs cut into the pistons. But it appears this cam has the same lift (.517!!) with 1.6 rollers.

[EEE]

I guess the whole engine will be assembled from top to bottom, you know that you will have to document to whole process with plenty of pics and info for us noobs to drool at. :Brow:

[Smartin]

The engine and all associated parts are in Cincinnati for machine work and assembly. I hope to have it completed by the end of the month. Then - dyno time!!!

[EEE]

You're having them do everything? Just getting a complete engine back on a pallet?

[Smartin]

They're assembling the botom end, and I will complete it when I drive out to pick it up. We'll dyno the engine there, and hopefully, do the engine swap in Cincinnati so I can drive the new engine home. Worst case scenario, I have to drag the engine home and swap it here.

[EEE]

What kind of numbers are you looking for?

[Smartin]

Somewhere between 400-500 hp:D

I really have no idea what this combo will produce. The dyno tells all!

[Austrian455]

Adam, you said you´re going to use stage 1 ported heads. Are this the heads you had on your old engine? Who did the porting on those heads ?
How much will it cost you until you have it back in the car?
I´m curious to see what it´ll produce on the dyno.

[Smartin]

These are the heads I bought for it in 2007. They were ported by Charlie Evans, one of Buick's racing pioneers. They were on the engine last year.

I'm not sure what it will make on the dyno.

Last I heard, the block was almost finished being machined!

[72gsx4me]

Adam,

Your combo looks great. Best of luck. I would love to see you give Yardley a run for his money. LOL.:xyxthumbs:

Will (Proud New Papa)

[MichelHaak]

Great project again Adam, that will be one hell of a 455. It's really inspiring for me. Please post some pictures when you will built the engine further up yourself! :xyxthumbs:

[Smartin]

It looks like next weekend (January 24) will be the swap time!

[Smartin]

It's alive!!

447 HP
512 TQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEKWSAe3hRU

[MichelHaak]

Darn nice figures.... Sounds aggressive enough I guess! :xyxthumbs:

512 tq, that's more then a 8,3 litre Viper engine! :laugh:

[Smartin]

Video if it idling..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11v_jio63J4

[Austrian455]

Adam, your engine sound so good. I watched the videos 7 times now. Man, I wish I had something like that under my hood for the summer.
What parts did you finally use?
Did you buy the TA roller rockers? I thought they wont clear the stock valve covers?

How much did the complete build up cost? (parts, labor, dyno ect.)

[Smartin]

10-1 compression ratio
TA forged pistons with valve reliefs +.030
Stock reconditioned polished rods
Stock crank
TA288-98H cam
Roller rockers ($$$ ouch!!)
70 Stage1 ported heads with new bronze guides and seals
Extreme duty race bearings - mains & rods
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold - gasket matched
800 CFM QJet by John Osborne
Xrane XR-i ignition


The roller rockers don't clear the stock valve covers, but TA sells special thick gaskets to raise the covers to clear them.


Cost? It hurt a little more than I thought it would...especially when I saw the bill from the machine shop:tonge2: Total cost for everything (not including the costs of transporting the parts to Ohio and back):::::

$5000, give or take a couple bucks. Half was for parts, the other half was shop machining, labor, and dyno time.

[Jimsss]

Wow, Nothing cooler than a fullsize with power! Love your
car:) Would love to see some driving vids...

[EEE]

You bit the big one... wow :eek::eek::eek: a real hot rod now. Sounds super nice..... How is it to drive? Any final tuning remaining? How much of that will reach the rear wheels? 350+? I'm guessing 13.32 at the track, but it won't come on the first run.

I'm considering building the 455 for my cat, but with work and everything now, it's like being under an artillery barrage, people being kicked out all the time :tonge2: , oh well.. some day it will happen.

[Smartin]

Kimson, there is definitely more to be had. The power was still climbing at 5400 RPM. Peak torque was at 4000. I didn't do any carb tuning, and I know a spacer will help...it probably wouldn't hurt to talk to John Osborne about rejetting, either. I would like to eventually go with a TA SP1 intake.

As far as driving goes, it's still got good manners. It has a little bit of a rumble at the stop lights. Just a bit more than the last cam. I can make the rear end go sideways at 25-30 mph:Brow:

Considering I only hit 250 HP at the wheels when I blew it up on the dyno last year, this one is a good 100 HP more than that. Expect 20-25% loss through the drivetrain. So, 447 x .75 = 335 to the wheels. Easy mid thirteens! (I hope)

[EEE]

Too cool.

[Sweepspear]

It sounds awsome Adam! :Brow:

:beers:

[EEE]

You know we need more video and pictures.. How about a kickdown with a chirp :Brow:

[Smartin]

I'd love to, but it's 10 degrees outside and 6" of snow just dropped in the last 24 hours. I have to go help out a landscape company plow snow. It doesn't look like it'll be warm for a while!

[Robroy]

Your engine really sounds powerful Adam and it is impressing numbers!
Looking forward to see what you can do on the track with that equipment when the season begins :beers:

Just curious, but do you still have the stock oil pan?
I red the other night in the How to Build Performance 350 400 430 455 Buick Engines book that they recommended a larger oil pan for Buick HP engines going above 5500 rpm since there was a slight risk for oil starvation.
Are there any upsized aftermarket oil pans that fit our cars?

[Smartin]

TA Performance sells a 6 quart oil pan that looks stock.

I still have my stock pan. I don't plan on revving it that high when I drive it...I just wanted to see where it was making power on the dyno.

[Smartin]

Changed the oil and went out to play this afternoon!:Brow:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SV1b4ccif4

[Centurion]

Adam, WOW!!!

You've made my day. Very fun.

[EEE]

How does it compare to the old cam when it comes to driveability? Lots more power?

[Smartin]

I can definitely tell the power difference...drivability is just fine. It idles surprisingly smoothly when it's nice and warm. Must be time for more cam!!:D

[72gsx4me]

Adam,

Your car sounds really healthy. Best of luck and may you blessed with many great time slips.

Will:beers:

[Austrian455]

Man. what a ride. Too cool.

[Robroy]

I still have my stock pan. I don't plan on revving it that high when I drive it...I just wanted to see where it was making power on the dyno.
I was 99,9% sure you had it covered, but just in case not…

Nice vid! Lots of power and still good drivability is a nice combo.
The surroundings look very Scandinavian by the way…

The roads are dry and salt free here today, so I’m gone take my baby for a spin too :)

[Jimsss]

car sounds sick! VERY cool!
I was also out cruising today, added about 100miles to the odo.

[Smartin]

I finally took it to the track at the BPG nats 2 weeks ago!

I also found out that I'm not getting enough fuel to the carb. Time for a fuel pump upgrade!

The best I could muster was a 13.99, and that wasn't a clean pass. I never had a good pass that weekend...it was very frustrating. When I get the fuel problem fixed, and get better weather, mid 13's should be no problem.

[Smartin]

Fuel problem fixed...I think. I took it out tonight after I replaced the stage1 fuel pump with a TA high volume pump. NO hesitation through the gears anymore!!!

13.50 here I come!

[Robroy]

Fuel problem fixed...I think. I took it out tonight after I replaced the stage1 fuel pump with a TA high volume pump. NO hesitation through the gears anymore!!!

13.50 here I come!

Do I detect some spring spirit between the lines here :D

[Smartin]

I drove it to a BCA event yesterday, and it is a totally different car. I've never felt it run through all the gears without some sort of hiccup before. Awesome! I love it.

[Robroy]

I drove it to a BCA event yesterday, and it is a totally different car. I've never felt it run through all the gears without some sort of hiccup before. Awesome! I love it.
And this due to the new fuel pump?

[Robroy]

I drove it to a BCA event yesterday, and it is a totally different car. I've never felt it run through all the gears without some sort of hiccup before. Awesome! I love it.
And this due to the new fuel pump?