View Full Version : Harmonic Balancer Removal 455
71ROUTE66
06-27-2010, 07:50 PM
I am looking for some assistance regarding the procedure for removing and re-installing the harmonic balance in a '71 455. I have the water pump, pulleys and everything out of the way. I tried using a hammer and breaker bar to try and start the bolt. The Buick shop manual does not get into detail. They do say that for re-installing the harmonic balancer, you should use a screw driver to hold the fly wheel.
Bruce
Smartin
06-27-2010, 08:53 PM
Do you have an impact wrench? This is the best way to do it.
OR if you have a big breaker bar that you can lay against the frame or concrete floor, you can BLIP the starter and it will knock the bolt loose.
centurion 455 ragtop
07-04-2010, 01:49 PM
ONce you do get that HUGE bolt undone if the balancer refuses to come off use a wheel puller. I would not recommend hitting it with a hammer to try to loosen it. It will just shock the main bearings. Re-Installing, first inspect the inside of the balancer and crank snout for any surface crud or rust. To clean it off I wet sanded it very lightly just to clean it. Then get yourself some anti-seize compound and very lightly coat the crank snout and inside of the balancer. When installing the balancer do not force it. MAKE SURE the small key way is lined up with the balancer and the crank snout. Sometimes I use a small block of wood holding it across the face of the balancer and LIGHTLY EVER SO LIGHTLY just tapped the wood in the center to help push on the balancer on evenly. When torquing that huge bolt I try to wedge a small breaker bar in the fly wheel or like what Adam explained. I also use lock-tite on the bolt. That bold should be torqued to 200 ft.lbs. My wrench goes to 150 so I just give it and extra pull on the wrench.
gashog
07-06-2010, 10:16 PM
Impact wrench with an air compressor would be my first choice.
Use a jack handle as a leverage extension over your half inch ratchet.
Once you have the main bolt loose,rent a harmonic ballancer puller from your local auto parts store.
Do not hammer on the balancer!
gashog
07-06-2010, 10:16 PM
Impact wrench with an air compressor would be my first choice.
Use a jack handle as a leverage extension over your half inch ratchet.
Once you have the main bolt loose,rent a harmonic ballancer puller from your local auto parts store.
Do not hammer on the balancer!
Broke a torque wrench on that nut.. Had a tube extension on the handle, and it just couldn't take it.
Smartin
07-07-2010, 10:22 PM
A torque wrench is not to be used as a breaker bar, Kimson! :laugh:
I've never had a problem getting a Buick balancer off once the bolt is out. They should just slide off the crank snout. If not, then do as the other said and don't force it. Go to a parts store and borrow a balancer puller.
A torque wrench is not to be used as a breaker bar, Kimson! :laugh:
Some of take the tools to the limit, and then a little further, just to check the quality:Dou:
73 Centurion
07-08-2010, 10:43 AM
silly rabbit, that's a breaker bar. Not a torque wrench. Althought the adjustable wrench/hose clamp arrangement is one I haven't seen before.
All kidding aside that looks like it was a real battle.
John
71ROUTE66
07-08-2010, 11:48 PM
I appreciate all the suggestions. It's funny how you start with a simple repair project ( exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold). Then, since I broke an exhaust bolt, I figured I would pull the heads and recondition them since I had to fix the broken bolt anyway. Since I had the top half of the motor open I figured I would change the timing chain and inspect the oil pump. Stop! What am I doing??? It's summer! So, I think I am going to wait until winter and re-evaluate the need to do this.
I reconditioned the heads. They look great. As for the exhaust manifold, the left manifold had a 4" crack on one side and a 3" crack on the other. I found a shop that fixes cracked cast iron. The process involves heating the manifolds to 800 degrees and they fuse the cracks. The repair is supposed to be stronger than the surrounding metal. I picked these up today and they look like new.
I painted the intake manifold, valve covers, heads, water pump with Buick Red VHT paint. I plan to use POR15 exhaust manifold gray paint rated for 1400 F. The parts look great. Again, I have to restrain myself from tearing down the engine any further to clean and paint further
So, it's time to start putting it back together.
I hope too have it running by next weekend.
Thanks
Bruce
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