1970 Engine, what do you think

[Austrian455]

Hey fellas,

Yesterday someone here in austria offered me a 70 455 engine, complete from pan to carb. running.
He wants 2000 EUR for it. (about 3000 dollars)
So I think that would be a good idea to put into the centurion.
A big advantage is that I don´t have to pull the engine of my car before I have the 70 motor ready to put in.
If I buy the 70 I would make a small "rebuild" before putting it into the car.
I thought of stage1 valves, head porting, port matching the performer intake I have on my orig. motor now, keep the 800 CFm Q-Jet, porting the exhaust manifolds, a nice TA cam (will need your help to choose one), crane ign. points conversion, and putting on the dual exhaust (2.5 in not mandrel bent) I still have.

Sure, I also have to think of the other parts I will need (oil pump booster plate, preasure reg., water pump, valve springs, timing chain ...)
And I will need a torque converter (stall 2500 ??) and a posi.
What do you think of my plan?
How much power can I expect from that setup? 400 hp on the crank?
Did I forget anything?

[Robroy]

I checked the price list on a company (Yankee Parts) here that sells used engines, here it goes;

455 from 70-71 tested (oil pressure, compression) without accessories (generator, starter, carb, distr etc) is 1314 EUR

455 from 72- tested (oil pressure, compression) without accessories (generator, starter, carb, distr etc) is 959 EUR

To those prices you need to add tax and shipping, in your case the tax would be the same as if you were buying anything from Germany, France or any other EU country.

They do have untested but restorable engines too at approx half the prices listed above, as well as a all lot of other used/new parts for American cars pre-75

If the engine you were offered for 2k EUR is complete and healthy, 2000 sounds like a fair price to me ;).

[Austrian455]

Per, thanks for the info.
interesting that they charge the same money for a 70 and 71.
71 was the first low CR year if I´m correct.
I was told that the engine is in good used condition. But before I buy it I´m going to see it. I´ll check Compression and oil pressure.
I really don´t want to rebuild the bottom end. I calculated a bit.
If I can leave the bottom end as it is, I´ll have to spend about 1500 dollars. I would do all work by my self.
If I would do a small overhaul ( I don´t want to call it a rebuild) with new rings, main and rod bearings, reconditioned rods, head studs, main studs and balancer ... it would take me another 1200 dollars. But I´m sure it would be about 1500 with all small parts I forgot now.
What´s your oppinion. Is it a good idea to build up what I described above on a untouched bottom end (if it is in good condition) or should I spend those 1500 additional dollars?

[Robroy]

I leave your last question to the more experienced members, but here’s another idea;
How about buying a car with a restored engine, then swap engines and sell car2…
Check this out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Classic-Buick-Centurion-1973_W0QQitemZ130290192839QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20Truck sQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash= item130290192839&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

[Austrian455]

Per, thats a nice idea BUT
1) I don´t want the 1970 engine because mine is in bad condition. My orig. engine has good compression and oil preassure. I want to swap because of the power gain. And I don´t want to take apart the orig. engine of my car because it´s good. And my dad always says: Don´t repair it if it´s not broken.
2) People can tell me that the had the engine rebuilt. But I will never know if they realy did it like they told me. If they realy used all parts the say and I will never know if it was a good quality rebuilt or a "wire brush hone rebuild".
If I swap the engine of my car I want to build it my self and I will keep my # matching motor.

But thanks for your post.