EGR

[Robroy]

I’m curious about how many of the 73 owners (and those 72’s that have this too) that have removed the airpump and the EGR valve?
Also did you remove the complete EGR valve or just disconnect the vacuum?
And did you notice any difference in how the engine runs, engine temp and mileage afterwards? :user:

[centurion 455 ragtop]

With mine I took the air pump apart and removed the guts then re-installed it just for the original look. The pully is free spinning. I also blocked up all the egr and the related ports so the entire system does not work but looks in place for the most part. If you happen to remove your smog pump do not throw it away there are guys out there restoring Buicks looking for these pieces and are willing to pay money for these pieces. These pieces are now hard to find as back in the day most people threw them away.

When I rebuilt the engine, gas was about 3 bucks a gallon so I did a standard low compression rebuild using stage one converted heads with mild port work. The trans also rebuilt with a shift kit and out the back still have those 2.73 gears. Only difference was a mild low end after market towing cam.

As for performance difference? I never did compare the difference with or with out the smog pump. Without it and with a car weight at 5,025 pounds driving nice and easy maintaining speed limits, I can muster 17-18 mpg and on regular fuel. If I am on a long trip using the a/c or driving her a little hard I use the higher octane fuel and get about 15-16 mpg. If I tow I also need the higher octane fuel and gas drops down to...........9-10 mpg. And with the a/c going....don't ask, its not good.

Per, I would also make sure you do not have any problems with vehicle registration laws where you live if you modify or remove the emission equipment. In New York State and I think in most states if the car is older than 20 or 25 years (not sure) there is no emission test to worry about.

[Robroy]

Hi Rick and thanks for the input!

My smog pump was removed by the previous owner but came with the car laying in the trunk. The EGR is still in business though; it looks like it was replaced not long ago as well as the temp control valve connected to it.
I was thinking about just disconnecting the EGR valve and plug the hose. Don’t think it would be a problem with the authorities here, besides my emission was already measured as high at the test station but they just said, well it’s an old car :coffee:.

The exhausts is strong enough to trigger the fire detector (if reversing the car in) I had put in the garage, had to remove the darn thing :laugh:
Maybe removing the pump sets the whole system out of order…:confused4:

It was the thread below on the v8 forum that lead me in to thinking about the intake smog system, check out post #5. I think there’s a slight chance this could be the cause for my tap noise in the engine, can’t wait for the weather to improve so I can start her up and check it out. I have found the four plugs (looks similar to the kind you have on the block to prevent it from freezing) on the intake that could be leaking. Would make sense that noise goes away at idle since the EGR is closed then, would also make sense that the noise only appears when the engine gets hot since the intake probably expands a little then, maybe a little more than these plugs….

It’s a long shot but worth looking into before ripping the intake off and replacing/cleaning lifters…..

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=48381&highlight=lifter

[Sweepspear]

I think the ends of those runners are capped off with a plug similar to a freeze plug if I remember correctly.
If a hole were to develop in one, I bet it would make a noise similar to a lifter.

:tonge2:

[Robroy]

Yes, freeze plug was the word I was missing in the previous post

They look ok from a visual check, but I’ll try and cover them one by one with the engine running to see if the tap noise gets affected.

Boy, would I be glad if it turns out to be that simple :rolleyes:.

[dewbers]

Hey Per - I hope your troubles are that easily fixed! That would be a much easier fix! I did disconnect my airpump as well. No noticable performance difference that I could tell. The guy that helps me on the motor "issues" said I probably will pick up a mile or two in the MPG area, but I've not measured it. I may remove the guts like Rick was talking about so it looks stock. Or I may just remove it all together and perhaps sell it off. In Delaware, once you pass inspection the first time (on classic cars) you don't have to pass it again... EVER. So I am good to go on that end.

[Robroy]

Hey Per - I hope your troubles are that easily fixed! That would be a much easier fix! I did disconnect my airpump as well. No noticable performance difference that I could tell. The guy that helps me on the motor "issues" said I probably will pick up a mile or two in the MPG area, but I've not measured it. I may remove the guts like Rick was talking about so it looks stock. Or I may just remove it all together and perhaps sell it off. In Delaware, once you pass inspection the first time (on classic cars) you don't have to pass it again... EVER. So I am good to go on that end.
Appreciate the input Steve,

After studying lots of threads on the smog subject over at v8 it seems like the air pump doesn’t steal as much power as many thinks which aligns with your own experience after removing it.
What’s even more interesting is that some say that the EGR valve admits a lot more advance :confused2: and if that’s correct it may well be that you get more power and better milage with it on…..

The weather hasn’t admitted me taking the car out to see if my tap noise can be a leak in the smog runners, not yet…:rolleyes: